Not many people find themselves in a mental hospital on their first visit to Paris but, obviously, this was my first point of call on my debut in France`s capital. Unfortunately, this hospital was not of my preferred derelict, Victorian architecture, variety but, rather, a slightly dull, 1960s concrete construct in a run-down suburb of Northern Paris.
Upon arrival in Paris Nord, it occurred to me that I would have to negotiate the Metro - in French, at night, by myself and lugging, quite possibly, the largest size of suitcase acceptable for intercontinental travel. Having purchased the correct tickets on the 7th attempt, thank you for having no English instructions whatsoever, and sheer guesswork at the required line, my initial concerns were realised when I discovered the sheer number of stairs on the Metro. A) Whose bright idea was that? and B) No wonder French women stay slim! After changing lines and experiencing my own personal game of Snakes and Ladders - mostly ladders - complete with 100kg of extra weight, I arrived at the hospital to collect the keys for the apartment. There, I encountered my next obstacle...
Ahhhhhhh, the "Je ne parle pas Anglais" security guard. Luckily, I sprang into action with my top notch Franglais, which resulted in a bemused smirk from him and increasingly suicidal tendencies from me. I thought "je visite mon ami pour retrouver les cles pour làppartement, je ne sais pas ou est làppartement"* made perfect sense! A quick emergency phonecall and I was finally allowed up to the ward. Considering the state of me upon arrival, it is no mean feat that I was allowed to leave! The nurses were intrigued by the sweating, sobbing mess, resplendent in strawberry hat and Moomin hoodie. Under French mental health regulations, I probably qualified for a bed, nay, an entire wing to myself. Mad, noooooo, I`m British!!!
Onwards to Montmartre. Now, I have since experienced the fantastic qualities of the area but, as I exited the Metro at Blanches, my first sight was the famous Moulin Rouge. "Great, another fucking hill" was all I could muster. I finally reached Rue des Abbesses, my home for the next 5 days. The apartment block was like stepping back through a Parisian timewarp, all wonky stairs and creaky doors. After 10 minutes of wrestling with the 18th century door, and disturbing the lovely lady opposite (Françoise, whose English was as proficient as my French) I was in! You would think this would be the end of my ordeal, but no, due to the fantastically odd wiring - probably designed by an opium addicted, cad in 1870 - there were no lights. There were switches but no light fittings; Oh what fresh hell was this? Eventually, by the light of my HTC, I sent an SOS to a trusted friend "Save Me. I am in a fucked up, horror version of Amelie"
And day one came to a dramatic climax.
*Roughly translated, in crap Franglais, this means "I am visiting my friend to get the keys for the apartment, I don`t know where the apartment is" Obviously, my verbs were not correct and this was spoken in mouse-like tones through a small hatch.